One of the key motivations for our trip to Darjeeling was to visit the small growers of Darjeeling, understand their work and see first hand how the landscape of tea in this famous region is changing.
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Michelle : We were heading to Burbung Busty near Kurseong to meet Rajiv, his brother Anurag and their family who have set up a small tea processing unit making black green & white teas. Rajiv is a hugely experienced tea maker with a career in a number of larger gardens [Ambootia, Nuxalbari] under his belt. Motivated to ensure buyers get good teas at good prices made in a way that supports the local community he teamed up with his family [brother in law, father, father in law...] to strike out alone.
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The small factory was in full swing when we arrived. A small amount of leaf is processed at a time : 18-19 kg a day; giving 5-6 kg of dry tea. The green leaf arrives from six small plots of land ; 3 in Kurseong and 3 in Poobong all between 1.5 and 2 hectares [although more tea is being planted]. 'Different plots have different qualities' explains Rajiv 'for example P315 is a good clone for second flush. China hybrid makes the muscatel flavour we love in second flush'. When the leaf arrives an initial assessment is made. Rajiv shares 'Before making any tea we need to we look at the weather and temperature'
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Once the initial assessments are made the tea must be withered. The green leaf looked so stunningly green and fresh in these simple, neat, clean withering beds in Rajivs factory - no contact is made with the leaf in this time, no shuffling or turning. After withering the tea is rolled - in the case of the second flush in production - 30-35 minutes before a 2 1/2 hours oxidation [where we see the flavour or '2nd nose' develop]. Then it is into the Chinese tray drier - that we have seen in many factories making orthodox teas - to be dried for around 30 mins at 110C [the door of the drier is opened after 5-6 minutes to get rid of moisture].
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Time to stop for a cup of tea. Rajiv had something very special up his sleeve producing the wonderful cold brew second flush muscatel pictured above - cold brewed for 18 hours it was so so delicious - we will make some up and have it in our Bath store to coincide with the publication of this blog. When you taste black tea you know when you are in the hands of an experienced tea maker - and when I drank Rajivs tea and heard his story it actually reminded me of Mr Xu in China whose story you can read here. Tea over it was time to head to see the 2 of the small patches of land dedicated to tea.
We have visited many tea gardens around the world - you always know when you go somewhere special - small plots of land at high altitude surrounded by forest, biodiverse and generally a bit of a trek to get to! Tea Heaven! As we walked Rajiv shared his vision ''The system is collapsing - the Colonial hierarchies created by the British have created a negative situation with topsoil loss and a disconnection between tea & the communities surrounding it - when we are looking at the life we are trying to build tea needs to be the icing on the cake - not at the centre. If we are taking from nature then we need to give back - before tea we need to care for the land, ensure that we use the land in a way that cares for the community ; tea and the income from it are just one part of the plan'
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This rings true with the thoughts of Farden which we shared in our first blog [you can read here]. Tea alone will not sustain either the land or the people who depend on it. With these thoughts ruminating in our heads we headed to our accommodation for the night and a reflective cup of tea looking over Kurseong
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The next morning we were delighted when Rajah, who is sharing his wealth of knowledge and experience with this small tea operation, arrived to spend the day with us. It was a day that was to start with tasting......
....before moving on to visit one of the partners in this project Sahadeo Singh. Pulling up outside the house of Sahadeo we received a warm welcome before being ushered through the house and down through the gardens below. The layered system was the perfect example of what Rajiv had been sharing the day before. Tea was just one part of the picture - an extensive herb area which you can see pictured below, herbs, fruits plants and vegetables all grew in harmony. Tea waste goes back into compost - there is a regenerative cycle here - no waste. Down the hill slightly among the trees sat the tea - growing healthily as one part of a hugely diverse organic ecosystem. The group chatted, shared their excitement, passion - talked about the herbs and the soil. 'What is this?' asked rajah holding out handfuls of soil to show the children. 'Soil?' they tentatively replied - 'not simply soil' Rajah continued 'this is wealth'
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Passing by a tea bush Rajah spotted a ladybird and called Rajiv over - 'we started this garden in 2016 and look at this! - A female ladybird - and a male - If we trace it now he is eating - lets not disturb them - When ladybirds are there they are sure signs you don't need pesticides - there is a food web here - one predates on another and you achieve balance'. Walking a little further along the path, talk turned to the famous second flush muscatel - much sought after by tea makers and tea drinkers this tea requires a special kind of leaf as raw material. Rajah paused at a tea bush and started to pluck some leaves 'look at these damaged leaves - these are the leaves that will give the muscatel - these leaves have been damaged - fed upon by the green fly - they are stunted and shrivelled - the other leaves from this bush will make good tea but not muscatel'. Spending time with Sahadeo and his family and seeing how the seeds of partnership and a shared vision for a different future for tea in this region had led to this thriving smallholding was inspiring and uplifting. When you see the whole picture, the growers, the tea makers, the mentor all together you start to better understand what makes the tea taste so good! We hope you agree!
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Try the delicate cup that is Rajiv's First Flush Darjeeling >> SHOP HERE
Try the full bodied tone of Rajiv's Second Flush Muscatel >> SHOP HERE
